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Measure each wall's length by its height, subtract the doors and windows, then divide the total area by the product's coverage rate and multiply by the number of coats. New plaster absorbs far more than a repaint, so add a wastage allowance. The Paint Calculator does this and recommends the most efficient combination of pack sizes.

Sheen, and what that sheen costs you. Matte reflects almost no light and hides an uneven wall, but it marks more easily. Eggshell has a low lustre and takes light cleaning. Semi-gloss is noticeably reflective, sheds moisture and resists mildew, which is why it suits kitchens and bathrooms. High-gloss is the shiniest and hardest wearing, and belongs on doors, frames and trim rather than large wall areas.

Usually yes, as long as the existing film is sound. Wash off dirt and grease, sand back any gloss so the new coat has a key, scrape flaking areas back to a firm edge, then fill and prime the bare patches. If the old paint is powdery, blistered or peeling away in sheets, it has to come off first — anything you put over it will fail with it.

A finish with some sheen. Semi-gloss and high-gloss form a tighter film that sheds steam and cooking grease, wipes clean repeatedly, and resists the mildew that grows on matte surfaces in humid rooms. Pair it with a damp-proof sealer on any wall that has a history of moisture.

It depends far more on exposure and preparation than on the tin. Monsoon rain, direct sun and the fungal growth that follows all shorten the life of a coating, and south and west elevations weather fastest. A weathershield exterior emulsion over a cleaned, sound, correctly primed surface will outlast an interior grade used outdoors by a wide margin. We would rather survey the building than quote a single number.

Epoxy is harder and more chemically resistant, and self-levelling grades give a seamless, easily cleaned finish — the usual choice for production areas, workshops and warehouses. Polyurethane stays more flexible, so it handles thermal movement, impact and UV better. Plenty of specifications use both: epoxy as the body coat, PU as the topcoat.

It is decided by what the floor actually takes: wheel loads and traffic volume, what gets spilled and how often, the cleaning regime, and whether the area has to be non-slip or hygienic. The substrate matters as much as the product — moisture content and existing contamination will rule options in or out. We survey the floor first and put the build-up in writing.

Light foot traffic returns well before the coating reaches full chemical cure, and both depend on the product, the film thickness and the temperature and humidity on the day it was laid. The exact recoat and cure times for each system are printed on its technical data sheet — plan the shutdown around those, not around an average.

Yes. Rainbow Bank is our colour-mixing service — bring a reference to a showroom counter and it is matched and tinted there, in the product and finish you need.

Start with the showroom finder and choose your division. While the full locator with addresses and directions is being loaded, the hotline on 16601 will point you to the nearest counter.